E-mails from Beijing to Arnhem

Here are the e-mails - all 13 of them, warts and all. They offer a different perspective on our trip compared to the Dispatches.

Happy reading,

Des, Dick and Steve

Sent: Monday, 2 May 2005

Subject: Molloy and Huurdeman reach Beijing

Well actually it is two Molloys...but we're not sticklers for accuracy. Beijing has been reached but we haven't knocked the bastard off as they say. NO the Last Hurrah is a bit of a fizzer so far because while we have found Steve, and Dick's mate Geoff and our guide Wang and his Beijing "fix-it" man Lee and their driver...but the bikes have not yet been found and we think they are still in Auckland. A more detailed poting will be going on our web-site when we find a place with a USB port so the photos and dispatch I wrote on the plane can be emailed home.

Beijing has been found to be already occupied...seems like several million got here before we did...we'll shortly press on to the north...we may be gone for some time.

Your are receiving this email because you are either on one of our address books or you have asked to be included through www.thelasthurrah.co.nz I imported our address books then tried to take outr those that looked like the kids mates or suppliers. If you want out...vote with your fingers or email us and we'll remove you from the list. If you came in late...we're trying to ride two old british motorbikes from Beijing to Arnhem for a birthday party. There will be emails to those who have subscribed and a general posting on the web page.

Des

PS, we've just had a huge meal and a 680 ml beer for under $20 for the 3 of us

Sent: 6 May 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah wheels not yet spinning

Hi everyone, (now over 500 of you) we're inching towards success. We've just been to the night market and ate foolishly. I started with a 300 mm long snake that was all squidgy and pussy inside, Dick had some little frogs and Steve ate the sparrows. I had glazed fruit to get rid of the snake taste and we finished with hot almond milk. Today has been a good day as I found my way back to a workshop that sold SAE 40 oil (just in case we get our bikes one day), we also bought new batteries so we're still making preparations.

We've had a lot of fun and now have some meals down to US$1.00 each including a big bottle of beer. We've had bicycle adventures...but I've just emailed through a couple of dispatches to www.thelasthurrah.co.nz where they'll be posted soon and you can find out more...about why we're still wearing the clothes we left Wellington in on the evening of 30th April, how I've been sick and now I am well, how the bikes had to have their dangerous bits removed (and then they were to travel a day later...yeah right.)...etc.

The best laid plans of mice and men...well, Baldrick had this cunnning plan. Because the bikes were going first we'd put the light things (clothes etc)in the crate and the heavy things in the cabin luggage etc as we wouldn't be paying for it. So we have bags of tools and spares but no clothes. Believe me it is tedious...but soon we'll be away, sadly it is looking like it won't be until Monday or Tuesday.

Still happy though...and hopeful our stuff will finally reach China tomorrow.

Des

Sent: Wednesday, 11 May 2005.

Subject: Last Hurrah moving soon

I am writing this out of sheer boredom. You may have looked at our itinerary and envisaged that we would be struggling through Mongolia at present...so did we. But no, we are still in Beijing...almost residents. The bikes are here, the tanks and carbs are here, we are here but nobody seems to want to put all three components together. We believe that things are getting closer but we are losing heart a little, as nothing seems to have gone our way yet. We are filling our days in trying to get other visas...with total lack of success yet. We have tried for the Kazakstan visa 3 mornings in a row. Our agent goes early, puts our name on a list, today was our best yet...4th. But when they should open, "No work today, come tomorrow 9 o'clock." This wears a bit thin after 3 days as we are now doubting the tomorrow bit.

Other excitements...well we hired a 750 Chang Jiang motorbike and sidecar for a day. Travellers are always told...never part with your passport...good advice, but sometimes worth ignoring. I swapped my passport for the sidecar for a day...no deposit. He had my passport, I had his new CJ, he even gave us new rego plates to take with us. So with no helmet, no gloves, no jacket, no insurance, no papers...we were off, with lots of false bravado. In our minds, we were off to the countryside for a picnic. In reality we rode forever through suburban developments. We did find a great market where Steve had his new boots repaired and I bought a hat. A severe dust storm attacked us on the way back and the ride turned from a challenge to an even bigger challenge. The CJ is a Chinese copy of the Russian Copy of the pre-WW2 BMW. It is side-valve and makes 22 brake horsepower...but they are very small ponies we reckon. The build quality was so bad it made us laugh. Not every thing worked and the front wheel was egg-shaped. It even stopped on us. Steve and I pushed it off an express-way to the side of the road and we did wonder how we'd get it back and what we would say to the owner. I think it was fuel starvation in the hot going as it fired up later with no apparent ill effects. We found our way back...no mean feat...paid the guy $35US and got the passport back. We'd had a great day out and I don't believe I frightened the others at all...although Dick does slightly dispute this. Nobody hit us and we hit nobody, so I count this as a huge success. I bonded with the machine and think they are a great throw back to more gentle times. They sound so powerful but are so gentle. (a modern 750 makes over 100 horsepower)

We are eating and drinking well but just want to go, go, go. Dick and I finally bought new socks and undies...it was that or take a separate room for them.

Des, with Dick and Steve...Beijing

HOLD THE BUS...WANG HAS GOOD NEWS...BIKES ARE BEING DELIVERED TO THE HOTEL AT 5.30PM...THURS MORNING WE SHOULD BE ON THE ROAD.

PS. Midnight update: We have the bikes, we've been taken out by rich motorcyclists (free nosh and beer...great) who will join us as we leave on Thurs. We will assemble them tomorrow, go to the Police for plates etc, Steve will do Kazak embassy again. Things are looking up. For other stories and a few photos...look at our website.

Sent: Tuesday, 17 May 2005

Subject: Across the Gobi

Well, we bloody made it. It has been unbeleivably hard with over 600 kms of riding braided trails and tracks across the Gobi from China. Bikes doing great...a little better than the riders who are still toughening up..we hope. We've seen the Great Wall, we've been part of a 50 km traffic jam, we've had hot, we've had cold, we've eaten in gers with folk who have never met non-Mongolians, we've been amazed at the vast wilderrness, then come upon nomads living with their camels and horses, cattle, sheep and goats. We saw possibly 10-12 vehicles in 500 kms...just a couple a day.

We're well...a bit battered...just like the bikes. A little skin has been lost, a little metal bent but we're almost euphoric with our achievements. We will be heading off tomorrow 1 day tarseal, then 1500 kms of Gobi Desert, then 3 days into Russia to Barnaul from where we'll write again.

A dispatch with more tales and a couple of photos will be up on the www.thelasthurrah.co.nz website shortly. PS we were going research and bring the best recipe for damper...but we forgot. Now as there are over 500 of you getting this email...I don't want 200 recipes...but you could email to desmolloy@paradise.net.nz where Steph will chose one for us.

Isn't it great...you're at work and we're in Ulaabaatar.

Des, Dick and the Cabin Boy

Sent: 1 June 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah beats Mongolia

Yes, yes, yes...we've beaten the Gobi...well probably it was a 1:1 draw. Hard as hell, interesting, amazing, a huge snow storm tried our patience, we camped out, we've eaten better than expected. We completed our Degree Confluence uvuu...a fantastic day , great ceremony, lot of laughs.

Now we have reached Russia. From the brown sands of Mongolis to the green of Russia in just one day. Absolutely stunning, trees, valley, rivers. We're now in Barnaul which is a beautiful city on a huge river. Very lively place with the most stunning women..or maybe we've been in the desert for too long. Today we had 3 TV crews and a newspaper do stories on us. We saw one of the TV shows tonight which included some of Steve's footage from MOngolia.

We're well, there'll be a posting on the website very soon.

Sent: 10 June 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah are hot, hot, hot!!!

Get your maps out...we are in Almaty, Kazakhstan in relative luxury with the first hotel since Beijing that has most things working including hot water. We are now so hot, we pine for a snow storm occasionally. After the excitement of Barnaul, Russia (fantastic place) we had some bad experiences in a town near the border with our hotel refusing us and later some scary moments with drug pushers, drunks and an overbearing benefactor with a pistol. All's well that ends well and the next day we did another TV interview...and a newspaper one at the same time before getting to the Kazak border, getting through all the procedures before they spotted that we were 3 days EARLY. The Kazak embassy in Beijing had made a mistake that we didn't spot at the time...but hardly the crime of the century to arrive early...is it? Yep! They made us re-immigrate into Russia where we camped in the rubbish just outside the border post for three very long days. Luckily there was a cafe...nothing else. We counted train waggons after a couple of days...pissed off that we hadn't counted the really big ones we saw early on. There were two tracks...one in front of us and one behind us so we weren't short of things to do...yeah right!!! I counted a train with 59 waggons. Finally we allowed back into Kazakhstan having served our punishment for arriving early. This now means we are behind again and having to pay for a hotel we have already paid for. We also signed some cassette tapes for a guy who heard us on the radio then saw us camping...in squalor...you have to laugh really...where are the paparatzi when you need them.

To get here has meant days of mid 30 degree heat coming across some barren plains but also as we got closer...some green plains as well. The mountains dividing this part of the world from China are just amazing...huge. Alamaty is a cosomopolitan city of 1.5 million people and it fair hums. We're all doing well...still talking to each other, eating well. We have been camping, so it is nice to posh up a bit. My keyboard for the Palm T5 has gone on the blink so I haven't done a web "posting" yet...but I will...I promise.

I thought of lots of you the other night when camped behind a moslem cemetary. I sat watching the sunset and faces just spun through my head, family, friends, workmates, people I hardly kmow...it was strange and very moving as I was with other people's loved ones. My insensitive travelling companions were already snoring and missed me seeing the doves fly from the tomb and the red-tailed fox.

Sorry this is so long...

Des, Dick and the Cabin Boy

Sent: 14 June 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah apologises

Hi everyone! While we have been struggling along for the last 6 weeks or so, whenever I could, I have sent off an email letting you all know what is happening etc. I also get a tale posted on our website www.thelasthurrah.co.nz

Sadly, the technology has not deen working and it was only in Almaty that I realised that when I copy my address book to the BCC field (so you don't see each others addresses)...only the first 21 names have been copied so the other 580 or so have not been getting my updates. I am sorry about that. I am sure we'll sort something out...in the meantime I'll send this 20 times. Luckily it is quite a fast computer not like some in Mongolia.

We are making steady progress but have had unexpected delays, like having to wait 3 days at the Kazak border. We also have a problem with our Chinese paperwork as it has us entering China again at a Northerly point when our plans had us going in through a pass much further South. This means to go down to Sammakand and Bukhara will result in a big backtrack not a loop as intended. It also adds to our days which we don't want. We will probably leave our bikes here, fly down to Sammakand and come back for them. There has also been a recent decree in Tashkent which wouldn't have allowed us to ride them to the city anyway. We have to go there to get our Pakistan visa. At present we are waiting here in Biskek 3 days for the "express" China one. All this is frustrating as it can only be done on the road...the Chinese arrangements took 4 months, cost several thousands of dollars and still we couldn't have both entry visas at once....but this is me just rambling. We are all well...bikes included. We are looking forward to our next lot of riding as we will be going over two 10,000 ft passes on our way to China. This will be a huge test for our over-laden steeds.

Thanks to all of you for your encouragement...it is great.

Sent: 25 June 2005

Subject: Back in China

Hi everyone, Kazakhstan, Kyrgystan and Uzbekistan are behind, Pakistan beckons. We're back on track and passed into China over the Torugat Pass on time yesterday. To achive this has meant some compromises and a lot of dramas. Some of which you'll be able to read in my dispatches on www.thelasthurrah.co.nz which I'll have posted very soon along with some photos. We've seen wonderful sights and had great experiences in these exotic places. The bikes, like us, are still going well even if they don't look as good as when they left home. In contrast I probably look better...the 95 kg weekling has changed into a 8? kg weekling.

Tomorrow we'll get to the famous Sunday market here in Kashgar. We'll probably head off on Monday, so it is likely you won't hear from me again until Islamabad in another 10 days or so. That was originally to be the end of the adventure but now it begins the second part...the race for Europe and Dick's sister Willie's 70th birthday party bash.

Hey, we're well and all happy.

Des

Sent: 2 July 2005

Subject: Islamabad, Islamabad

Hi everyone...I had my victory email all composed in my head...we'd done it. We'd conquered the 4,733 m (16,000 ft) Khunjerab Pass, we'd forded streams, we'd been carried over streams, by truck, by front-end loader...and we'd failed to ford a bloody stream...one I had crossed twice before, but you'll have to read my next dispatch on thelasthurrah.co.nz to get the story. We camped out in no-man's land well over 3,000 m up. But we'd done all that. We'd handled the mid-40 degree heat. We'd seen sights we couldn't hope to describe, mountains that towered over us and valley that took our breath away. We'd found it like the "multple orgasms" that women's magazines always talk about. Ever corner brought a new gasp. This went on for longer than any women's magazine could persuade you would be posible. For several days we gasped...and grinned...and sang. Hunza was so nice that Dick decided he could live there. We weren't rushiing even though we need to run like hell to get to Holland for the 24th of July.

This was the end of the original adventure. It was all but over. About 9,000 kms had fallen behind us, more than 3,000 kms of that had been on unmade roads and tracks. We'd crossed the Gobi Desert and one of the highest public roads had been taken...weren't we bloody great...oh yes, and doesn't pride come before a fall. With one day to go, on a tarseal road, Steve and I came off a bridge, hit a bump, as you do, and a front fork leg broke. For the non-motorcyclists out there, this means that suddenly your wheel points one way and you handle-bars another. We hit nothing but used all of the road (Dick thought I had gone to sleep) before gracefully coming to rest against some rocks. A pure fluke. The bikes have been trucked into Islamabad together and rescue plans are being hatched. Dick could have effected a repair up the valley but we would have fallen further behind schedule and decided a 15 hour van trip was a better option...and we hit a truck in this at 4.30 am when the driver went to sleep. A glancing blow woke us all up and our damage was just a broken mirror, boken window and a peeled open bit along most of the side...very lucky. There'll be a posting soon.

Tired, but as usual, still happy

Des, Dick and the Cabin Boy

Sent: 15 July 2005

Subject: Down on strength but still trying hard

Hello everyone from a very hot Teheran. A lot has happened since I wrote last. After we had our fork leg repaired in Islamabad, we rode to Lahore just to have it break again as we got to town. Yes, we had been done like a dinner! The new fork leg that we paid to have made, was in fact just a shoddy weld with the stress point on the repair so it broke again. We are trying very hard to get to Holland for the 24th July so have planned all sorts of ways to get there. We took the train to Quetta and had the fork repaired the way Dick originally wanted to. The machinest then refused to accept any payment...but that is Pakistan, there is the most amazing generosity at times. We had an elderly gent pay for our meals at a roadside break...looked like he had hardly any money but it was an honour for him. It makes us feal pretty humble at times.

From Quetta, to gain time we went by pick-up 700 kms to the border overnight. Although this got us to the Iran border at 8.00, it would be 1.00 before we were on the road and the ride to Zahidan was really all too much for us. Temperatures well into the 40's scorch your eye balls when you ride and the temperature in the desert above the blacktop must be off the scale. {Locals tell us they have had 58 degrees C} This left us completely spent and Dick in particular was suffering. We booked into a hotel and Dick reluctantly confided that he needed to be got out of the heat and he really needed a doctor. We just happened to have taken a hotel opposite a hospital and soon our strong man was on a drip. Although we thought of heat stroke, or his diabeties numbers dropping low, all his tests seemed OK but a gastro entoritis virus was present. They looked after him well, but with the heat to be even worse in the next stretch, the wisest move was evacuation. Steve worked wonders as I was laid low with something similar to Dick. Dick farewelled us at Zahedan airport, he had a flight to Teheran then KLM were to take him on to Amsterdam. Steve had learned from our Iran agent that the train trip we had asked for to Istambul was booked out and it only goes once a week...Damn.

A day later when I was strong enough we rode to Bam. Although we started at 5.30 am it wasn't early enough. We'd got up at 3.15 but I was pretty pathetic and it took Steve that long to get me and the bikes sorted. By the middle of the day it was hotter than you can imagine. The military told us to shelter at an oasis until dusk, but we got there somehow. Bam is slowly recovering from tjhe devastating earthquake that killed nearly half the population 2 Xmas's ago. Many are still in tents, the shops are containers, rubble is everywhere but lots has been done. In Bam I was sure I heard Dick talking to some other travellers. We often bring up...Dick would say this was desolate...or something similar. His spirit is still with us. We rode up to Kerman and put the bikes on a train to Teheran...1150 kms overnight in airconditioned luxury. I dreamed of asking Dick this morning how he slept. He just won't leave us...isn't that great. Although we are a day behind the eightball and have missed the Teheran to Istambul express, today we have booked the bikes and us on further to Tabriz which we are told is cold...probably only 35 degrees. This will be through the night again.

We have 9 days to get to Arnhem. It is not looking good as we needed to be in Istambul on Sunday to make it. We will still keep on trying as we know there are those who want to welcome us on two and three wheels in Holland.

We know you're all wishing us well and urging us along...that is great. We're doing our hardest and will press on until we succeed. I'll write something soon for the web page but not sure when I'll get to an email connection.

Regard

Des, Steve and the spirit of Dick

Sent: 19 July 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah reaches Europe

Yes. We reached Istambul last night. To get here from deepest Southern Iran where we put Dick on a plane to luxury, cleanliness, good coffee, and recuperation...has been yet another adventure. Say it quickly and it sounds easy. We rode from Zanedan to Kerman in 40+ degrees, stopping the night in Bam, We then got a train to Teheran, another to Tabriz, got the bikes at 2.00 pm, rode 400 kms (including 2hr border crossing), slept, rode 700 kms, slept, rode 915 kms and suddenly we are in Istambul, Not bad for a couple of old British single banger motorbikes getting along at a giddy 80 kms per hour. Yes, do the maths...we've been sitting in the saddle for a hell of a lot of hours. Yesterday was 18 hrs including getting a hotel.

We are a bit jaded but bouyed by a cheery email from Dick today. He sounds great. We just have to tough it out for another 5 days or so and we will get to the party in Arnhem on Sunday. Cinderella really wants to go to the Ball.

We know there is a small group of fans...I use the word loosely...wanting to welcome us in to Arnhem. Wonderful. I am trying to find out some details of a roadside services area near Arnhem where we can meet. I reckon Noon on Sunday all going well with our bikes and health etc.

We can be texted on 0064 21 204 2691 PLEASE DO NOT PHONE AS IT MAKES A CALL THROUGH NZ AT VERY HIGH RATES FOR US

We will head for Greece shortly.

Regards to you all

Des.

PS. I will try and have a couple more stories on the web page soon. I have written them...just have to find a place with a USB ported computer

Sent: 21 July 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah to take a sea cruise

Hi everyone...it is 10.30 at night and still 30 degrees. We have reached Igumentitia...the setting off point for Corfu. Not for us though. We have tickets for a 22 hr cruise to Venice. We'll be in Venice on Friday morning. It will be great not to ride for a couple of days...in fact I am SO looking forward to NOT riding every day. We just have to hold out until Sunday...only another 1200 kms. Bikes are both struggling a bit with the Norton trying to emulate the Torrey Canyon and Penelope burning a valve.

What a ride we had today...a bit over 600 kms but through some of the best motorcycling roads on the planet and I don't say that lightly. Fantastic. The summer season is well under way here and the town is full of sun-loving folk. And doesn't that look good on the young!!! Not quite so good on the slightly older though. Ladies...please keep the bits you want to preserve, out of the sun. Personally, I've always liked lady's white bits...soft and smooth. Hell, you can't tell that I have been away for 3 months can you?

Fot those in Europe...and International Jet-setters with Gold American Express cards...anyone wishing to see us ride in on Sunday could be at the services area on the E35, 15 to 20 km. from Arnhem at E 35 turnoff Zevenaar (Holland) number 29...in the car park at NOON. We will be 10 mins late to let you get your cameras out. We know we have at least one Panther owner going to be there and rumour has it that he'll have something with bubbles in it to welcome us with. Won't that be great!

A missing dispatch has now been posted and some photos added to the Pakistan one. The "Bummed in Bishkek" will give you an insight into what can go wrong ...might give you a giggle as well.  www.thelasthurrah.co.nz

There's a couple of other musings on the way and they'll be up soon and with 22 hours to do nothing but read, and write...there'll be more.

Italy eh? I can hardly remember China, or Mongolia...our heads are bulging with sights, sounds, smells etc. We're still missing Dick as I keep thinking of searching questions I want to ask him like..."Where are Scania's made?" and "Have you ever worked on a 2CV?"...still we'll see him on Sunday and meet with his family.

Thanks again for your support during our travels.

Des

Sent: 26 July 2005

Subject: Last Hurrah reaches Arnheim 15 mins late

Hi everyone...we're here. I am now led to beleive that my emails haven't been getting through. Never mind, there have been a few of the dispatches added, including my "Bummed in Bishkek"saga.

Steve and I have ridden 15 - 18 hrs a day to get to Arnheim. Our record was 915 kms in one day in Turkey...after 700 kms the day before. hard on an old single banger...but anyway there will be another dispatch soon.

We reached the outskirts of Arnheim at 12.15 and met our Panther welcoming party of Rollo and Hans. Rollo had brought champgne over from Britain.

After suitably polishing that off we went and found Dick at his sister Willie's party. He was looking great...So much better than when we put him on the plane in Iran.

I've just been called for tea so bye for now.

Des